Top of the World

Natasa in Zomba market

Today, Nataša and I headed off to Zomba and the plateau.  It's an enormous chunk of rock that has stupendous views out across the plains towards Mozambique. Alas, the weather wasn't too good today, so the views were less than ideal, but we could still see a long way.

Beans and Pulses

We stopped off in Zomba itself to visit the market.  It was a vibrant and busy place, with all sorts of goods and food for sale.  We took quite a few photos, but it was the fish merchants who seemed to take exception to this, asking for money in exchange for the right to take photos. We politely declined and moved on.

Sunbird Ku Chawe Inn, Zomba

Thereafter, we drove up to the Ku Chawe Inn, situated up on the mountain.  It's a large hotel, in a fantastic location, but sadly the weather reduced the views somewhat.  But we could still see across towards Chilwe Lake, and we were able to enjoy the views whilst we enjoyed our liquid refreshment (that's tea for Nataša, and coffee for me!).

We then headed off to see Williams Falls, a waterfall on the mountain, along a track that was a bit bumpy - Daisy took it all in her stride, of course.

Williams Falls

The waterfall was really nice, with clear clean water rushing down the mountain across large boulder-like rocks. In the rainy season I think that the scene would be rather more violent than this.

After that we drove back down, pausing near the Mulunguzi dam for a couple of photos of some of the local monkeys, before we were asked to pay to take photos by the guard at the entrance to the dam, even though we hadn't gone into the fenced-in area.

Monkey at Mulunguzi Dam, Zomba

We quietly returned to Daisy and carried on down the mountain, and onwards to Blantyre.

WW1 Memorial for Kings African Rifles

On the way out of Zomba, just outside an army barracks and the central prison, there's a Malawi national monument that commemorates the soldiers of the Kings African Rifles (KAR) who died during the First World War. It was very moving to read the brass plaques listing the names of the relatively small number of (British) officers and NCOs, and the large number of (Malawi) soldiers who died. The most striking thing about the details on the memorial was the large proportion of deaths caused by disease rather than military action. It was quite an emotional experience.

A Taste For Tea

This morning, Chris and I set off in Daisy to drive down to Mulanje to take a look at the tea plantations.  We also drove on to the Mozambique border.

There are some spectacular mountains that rise up steeply and majestically from their foothills, and the area is much greener than around Blantyre.  On the way down there, we passed the usual array of roadside stalls selling bananas and sugar cane, but there were very few vehicles around apart from the occasional minibus plying its trade between Blantyre and the border

When we reached the tea  plantations, I was just amazed at how far they reached - they stretched for miles and miles, and looked meticulous - all the bushes being trimmed to the same height.  There were two colours of bush: one a bright vibrant green, and the other much darker.  Unfortunately the plantations aren't open to visit on Sundays, so getting the full story will have to wait for another occasion.

After we'd reached the border and turned round, we headed for the Kara O'Mula Country Lodge situated about 2kms above Mulanje town, up a narrow road (with the emphasis on the word "up").  In my Bradt guide to Malawi, it says:

".. this stylishly rustic lodge has been converted from a former District Commissioner's residence built in 1905."

It also says that it has one of the best restaurants in Mulanje, but we didn't have time to test that out.

We stopped in the Lodge for a quick drink before heading back to Blantyre (I've got a meeting this afternoon before we head off to Sally's to watch the England v Germany match at 4pm).

More pictures are on Flickr.