Saturday 7 August 2010

Top of the World

Natasa in Zomba market
Today, Nataša and I headed off to Zomba and the plateau.  It's an enormous chunk of rock that has stupendous views out across the plains towards Mozambique. Alas, the weather wasn't too good today, so the views were less than ideal, but we could still see a long way.

Beans and Pulses
We stopped off in Zomba itself to visit the market.  It was a vibrant and busy place, with all sorts of goods and food for sale.  We took quite a few photos, but it was the fish merchants who seemed to take exception to this, asking for money in exchange for the right to take photos. We politely declined and moved on.
Sunbird Ku Chawe Inn, Zomba

Thereafter, we drove up to the Ku Chawe Inn, situated up on the mountain.  It's a large hotel, in a fantastic location, but sadly the weather reduced the views somewhat.  But we could still see across towards Chilwe Lake, and we were able to enjoy the views whilst we enjoyed our liquid refreshment (that's tea for Nataša, and coffee for me!).


We then headed off to see Williams Falls, a waterfall on the mountain, along a track that was a bit bumpy - Daisy took it all in her stride, of course.

Williams Falls
The waterfall was really nice, with clear clean water rushing down the mountain across large boulder-like rocks. In the rainy season I think that the scene would be rather more violent than this.

After that we drove back down, pausing near the Mulunguzi dam for a couple of photos of some of the local monkeys, before we were asked to pay to take photos by the guard at the entrance to the dam, even though we hadn't gone into the fenced-in area.

Monkey at Mulunguzi Dam, Zomba
We quietly returned to Daisy and carried on down the mountain, and onwards to Blantyre.

WW1 Memorial for Kings African Rifles
On the way out of Zomba, just outside an army barracks and the central prison, there's a Malawi national monument that commemorates the soldiers of the Kings African Rifles (KAR) who died during the First World War. It was very moving to read the brass plaques listing the names of the relatively small number of (British) officers and NCOs, and the large number of (Malawi) soldiers who died. The most striking thing about the details on the memorial was the large proportion of deaths caused by disease rather than military action. It was quite an emotional experience.

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